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| Photo by Olivier Matyhys |
Assalaamu alaikum! In this long-awaited post, I'll be discussing the iconic "Afghan Burqa" and giving information about its reception in the Midwest United States where I live, as well as where one can purchase a burqa!
First let's talk a bit about the burqa itself. Also called "chadri" or "chadari" in Afghanistan and "topi" in Pakistan (topi is the word for hat, thus referring to the top of the garment which is made of a traditional topi hat), the burqa is also closely related to the "paranja," another full-body covering from outside Afghanistan. The composition of the burqa is a long overgarment, generally made of pleated material, combined with a niqab or face veil that also has a grill covering the eyes. It is held together in the front of the body when walking. Most people think of the blue burqa, as this is the most common color, but other colors are used in various places. For instance, white is more common in northern Afghanistan and in Pakistan, from my understanding, while another city sees many burgundy colored burqas and another a golden or mustard yellow. The easiest way to wear it, in my opinion, is with the hair down or braided, as this allows the hat to settle on the head. However, (and this is shown below), you can wear a bun with it though it may look a little weird, in my opinion.
One of the big things that makes the burqa so controversial is the idea that it is a symbol of oppression. While women in Afghanistan were forced to wear burqa during the Taliban regime, the burqa itself existed well before that and continues to be worn - by choice - by many women today, in Afghanistan, some in Pakistan, and even in India. While it causes a lot of tension within the United States, there are sisters who wear burqa here, and there is a US based store which sells burqa online. My own experiences wearing the "Afghan burqa" have been largely positive, alhamdulillah. I live in St. Louis, which is largely diverse, but the way the city is structured is extremely segregated and I have received verbal attacks (and one physical) within my city while wearing niqab, and I know it is worse in more rural and less racially diverse areas. However, while my recent post on Afghan fashion received a few comments which were negative, in person I have only ever received compliments on my burqas, and several people have commented on how beautiful the colors of both of them are, as well as saying I looked beautiful or cute wearing it. Ma shaa Allah, that made me feel so much better about it and while I sometimes still experience anxiety, all-in-all I'm very comfortable wearing it and it's so much easier than finding all of my various pieces! And cooler as well, as you do not need to wear hijab underneath it unless you plan to lift it for some reason. Recently I have done, and still have to do, some photoshoots in the burqa, and the only times I make sure to leave it at home are if I am going to the VA (veterans hospital) or if I am out with one of the people in our home, who has PTSD surrounding the Afghan burqa but has gotten comfortable around me in any other form of full-coverage Islamic dress.
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| One of the shots from my recent photoshoot. |
I have two different burqas. The first one I received is purple. After having tons of difficulty attempting to get a regular blue one (thanks postal service...), I ordered a bright purple one on eBay. The listing for this specific burqa ranges from about $30 + shipping (Zarina's, in select colors), to $52 + shipping (eBay), to $70 + shipping (from Germany). However, I have seen them for up to $100 + shipping if I remember correctly. The difficulty is places where you can buy burqa online tend to either have limited availability or they close temporarily and come back when they have more stock or are no longer being suppressed by the government... (long story but my Afghan fashion video post was censored and blocked on Instagram so only the picture could show. This is only the next thing in a line of things recently... but as I said, long story.) So availability can be sporadic.
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| My purple burqa |
While this burqa comes in fun and bright colors, the fabric itself is cheap. I don't mind it too much, mostly as I love the color, and it's very light weight and breathable, surprisingly. However, it's shocking to receive this fabric, which is almost like that of a Halloween costume, on something that normally would run you about $100 full price. On me, the burqa is about the right size, but as I've said probably five million times before, I'm the size of a 12-14 year old girl. So while the burqa is plenty loose on me, it does not fit my co-wife well at all, and she is average size. So these are things one should take into account if you want to purchase this style for the lighter fabric or fun colors.
The blue burqa I received is traditional, and what a woman in Afghanistan would actually wear. The detailing on it is extremely beautiful, the fabric is more plentiful and heavy, and it is really well made. While for most people the extra weight of the fabric may not be an issue, it was something that I had to get used to due to my disabled status, as my muscles are weaker than the average person. The burqa itself is very full on me and my co-wife could easily wear it. It also drags the floor on me, so in order to keep myself from tripping while wearing it, I have had to wear high heels once. Alhamdulillah I'm more stable and can wear heels, even if long clothing such as abaya or burqa is still a big tripping hazard for me some days.
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| Burqa length on me |
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| With heels, it's fine! |
When I ordered the blue burqa from @naaz_boutique, they told me it is a one-size item. However, when my friend Ayshea attempted to get me one, her family asked for my height so they could get me the proper size. So I'm not sure if it's just easier to purchase one that isn't sized, or perhaps, Ayshea's aunt was going to hem the burqa for me (I know she sews and was fixing a niqab fo Ayshea). Regardless, this one on me is very long while the purple one goes just above the floor, and I am aware other sizes DO exist, as little girls wear burqa to practice wearing it for when they grow up.
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| HOW ADORABLE IS THIS?! |
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| One shipper sells them for $46, when he is open. |
If you want another color but are ok with the color being more muted, you can also purchase burqas which look similarly well-made on eBay for anywhere from $46 + shipping to $66 + shipping. Most of the ones on eBay are sold via Pakistan, which appears to have a variant style of burqa/topi that does not have pleated material. The one store I've found that sells Afghan burqa (with pleats) in multiple colors is fastshipper2004 (child burqa above), and he appears and disappears from eBay, so you have to either look for his shop periodically or search 'afghan burqa,' 'burqa topi,' or 'afghanistan burqa' to find him whenever he shows up. His burqas are about $46 plus shipping and available in other colors such as purple or forest green but they are authentic, traditional burqas and appear well-made.
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| fastshipper2004 purple burqa (with a bun) |
Burqa links:
"Tourist" shiny burqa:
- Zarina's (limited colors) starting at $29 (plus camo and US flag chadari for higher price)
- DesertDressOfficial starting at $52 on eBay (plus shipping from UK)
- Kabul Art Gallery at $70 plus shipping (website is in German. Click 'Textilien' on the left to get to clothing.)
Traditional burqa:
- @naaz_boutique for $30 plus shipping (blue only)
- choice2buy.1947 starting at $46 plus shipping (currently only in white or brown)
- pakbestcollection starting at $50 on eBay, plus shipping (other colors such as white, tan, grey, yellow, and black)
- shereh-43 starting at $66 on eBay, plus shipping. (search 'burqa topi'. Hard for me to find a link to give you guys for all of burqa options in their store).
Ok akhiwat! In shaa Allah this has helped you all immensely! If you have further questions or comments, please let me know and I will do my best to help, bi'idhnillah.
Jazakum Allahu kheiran,
Sajida.
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